martedì 28 gennaio 2014

How to distinguish between the various styles of corsets

Corsets are not all equal, not only as regards the quality, which I will next time, but also as regards the styles.

Most of you will know the classical distinction between underbust, overbust, waist chincher / waspie:
  • Waist chincher o waspie: it is a very short corset, it is like a belt around the waist


  • Underbust corset:Unlike the waist chincher extends above the hips, and get to surround the underbust better.

  • Overbust corset: unlike the overbust also extends above the bust
 

In addition to these three main categories there are differences in the style in which a corset is drawn :

  • Hourglass corset: it is constructed to have the classic hourglass figure. To achieve the hourglass effect  is drawn  follow the natural shape of the body and to have a reduction  only at  the waistline  (usually of 10 cm). The reduction is applied mostly on the side panels.


  •  Conical shape corset: unlike that hourglass it compresses more the chest above the waist. The reduction is applied on all panels, and only a little more on the side panels, slightly compressing the lower ribs. On the sides it remains soft as the Hourglass following the natural shape of the body.


  • Pipe-Stem corset:
    in this corset the reduction is not only at waistline but it extends a few centimeters above the waistline, giving a tubular shape. It 's not easy to wear this kind of corset, as it is very constricting. It is especially suitable for people who are used to wearing corsets. It 'a modern corset that did not exist in Victorian times.

 
  • Edwardian corset aka S-Bend Corset/straigh front Corset:it is constructed so as to push the chest forward and hips on the back. It has a very stiff busk and boning especially on the front (flat steel bones) to keep the front straightIt usually present hip gores on the sides (the bones can be extended or not on them)










The picture shows the different posture obtained from Edwardian than Victorian corset
 
  • Ribbon corset : it is a corset that was used mainly to do sport. It 's a lightweight corset made  with double satin ribbons. It is very suitable for hot summer days. The reduction of the waistline is applied is lower, and usually ranges from 5 to 8cm. The bones are placed exclusively on sides and close to busk and grommets, because the other  panels are only made with ribbons.
 
  • Elizabethan corset: unlike the victorian one, it is not intended to reduce life, but only to lift the bust. It has a completely different construction.
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1 commento:

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