tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86828991937834427012024-03-15T10:53:45.824+01:00Sewing magicsVictorian, Steampunk, Burlesque, Gothic dressesSilvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.comBlogger99125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-68517955777314615062016-07-05T11:52:00.003+02:002016-07-05T12:10:32.789+02:00Biografie di Modisti famosiAltra novità sul blog, oltre alle biografie dei costumisti piu' famosi presto arriveranno anche quelle dei modisti, ovvero coloro che creano i cappelli dalle foggie piu' estrose!<br />
Le prime due saranno dedicate a Philip Treacy e Stephen Jones!<br />
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<br />Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-34737889890415738792016-06-21T10:06:00.001+02:002016-06-21T10:24:49.682+02:00Nuovo costume SteampunkCirca un mese fa mi è stato commissionato un costume Steampunk da una corista del coro Voci Perigolose. Alla gonna, acquistata già pronta, in quanto della misura adatta, ho apportato alcune modifiche sotto sua richiesta, mentre tutto il resto l'ho disegnato e confezionato appositamente per lei, tutto su misura.<br />
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<strong>La gonna</strong><br />
La gonna è in taffeta color prugna. La sopragonna ha dei canali con dei nastrini per arricciare la gonna e alzarla. La sottogonna ha un cerchio di metallo. Sotto richiesta della mia cliente che voleva che anche la sottogonna si potesse alzare ho applicato dei ganci per ottenere l'effetto. Ho anche aggiunto altri 2 ganci a livello dei fianchi per poter attaccare la borsetta e delle catenelle.<br />
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<strong>Il corsetto:</strong><br />
La sua richiesta era di avere uno stringivita piccolino con delle applicazioni. Ho optato per un rosebud coutil, un coutil damascato con delle roselline, con un busk alto 15 cm. Ho applicato sopra una farfalla con ingranaggio e ingranaggi e catenelle.<br />
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<strong>La camicia</strong><br />
Per la camicetta ho utilizzato un popeline di cotone stretch. <br />
La particolarità della camicia è che la manica lunga può essere staccata tramite gli automatici che si trovano sul polsino della manica corta. In questo modo è possibile utilizzare la camicia sia d'estate che d'inverno.<br />
Avevo ancora alcuni scampoli del taffeta prugna della gonna che ho utilizzato per creare i polsini, sia quello della manica corta che quello della manica lunga e per le ruches sul davanti. Ho applicato degli ingranaggi e catenelle sul davanti della camicia, e piccoli ingranaggi sui polsini della manica lunga.<br />
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<strong>La borsa</strong><br />
Per la borsa ho optato per una borsa a sacchettino con fondo rigido, la quale tramite una catenella è possibile appiattire e attaccare a uno dei ganci che ho aggiunto sulla gonna. Sul fondo ho applicato un orologio e delle lancette.<br />
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<strong>Il cappello</strong><br />
La base l'ho comprata. L'ho rivestita con il taffeta della gonna e ho applicato anche qui la farfalla e altri ingranaggi e catenelle sui lati.<br />
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Il costume quando era quasi finito:<br />
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<br />Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-29596198172947373322016-06-20T11:15:00.000+02:002016-06-21T10:25:47.093+02:00Visita alla sartoria del Teatro Regio<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Sabato ho partecipato a una visita guidata al Teatro Regio. La visita intitolata "Il teatro Regio e i costumi di scena" secondo quanto pubblicizzato doveva comprendere un “ingresso eccezionale” nella sartoria della sede dove ci si concentrerà sui costumi di scena dello spettacolo “Carmen” di Bizet. Purtroppo così non è stato, infatti il disappunto tra i partecipanti è stato comune. Dopo aver visitato il Teatro, siamo arrivati davanti alla sartoria che si trova nei sotterranei. Qui ci hanno fatto entrare, passare velocemente e uscire fuori, dove è stata fatta una "breve" spiegazione di come funziona una sartoria teatrale. <br />
I costumi della Carmen non li ho nemmeno intravisti. Inutile dire che mi sono sentita presa in giro...come si dice a Roma "è stata un po' una sòla".<br />
Per fortuna sono riuscita a scattare qualche foto all'interno della sartoria:<br />
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Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-60068891733699823232016-05-30T15:23:00.001+02:002016-06-21T10:08:49.978+02:00Nuovo corsettoL'ultima creazione che ho realizzato è questo corsetto steampunk:<br />
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Sto lavorando anche a una camicia e a un coprispalle, di cui a realizzazione ultimata posterò le foto.</div>
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I cartamodelli sono sempre realizzati su misura da me. </div>
Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-57300262621751947062016-05-27T11:33:00.001+02:002016-07-05T12:10:18.047+02:00 Edith Head il mito - Biografie costumisti famosi<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Hfb0-CokcpE/V0gImaINaPI/AAAAAAAAAvk/jXUeYzSMG1gwozrvBi2iPiBvSKllBzaoQCLcB/s1600/edith-head-vogue-28oct13-rex_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Hfb0-CokcpE/V0gImaINaPI/AAAAAAAAAvk/jXUeYzSMG1gwozrvBi2iPiBvSKllBzaoQCLcB/s200/edith-head-vogue-28oct13-rex_b.jpg" width="133" /></a><span style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Vincitrice di otto premi Oscar, Edith Head ha realizzato nella sua lunga carriera alcuni degli abiti piu' famosi della storia del cinema.</span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Un metro e cinquantasei di altezza, frangia e occhiali scuri, così appare la donna che ha vestito le piu' grandi star di Hollywood. </span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Nasce nel 1897 a San Bernardino in California. Dopo la laurea a Berkeley inizia a insegnare francese ma in contemporanea comincia anche a frequentare corsi serali di disegno. Nel 1923, pur senza esperienza , decide di rispondere a un annuncio di lavoro come bozzettista per la Paramount .</span><br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1-Ch1Uic0t4/V0gJckm8ZEI/AAAAAAAAAvs/kNRKmxKH6e4NLlZEYp9jx8gvxSyeGoZdwCLcB/s1600/94646f0d0ba0a0f2f8d1091089846528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1-Ch1Uic0t4/V0gJckm8ZEI/AAAAAAAAAvs/kNRKmxKH6e4NLlZEYp9jx8gvxSyeGoZdwCLcB/s1600/94646f0d0ba0a0f2f8d1091089846528.jpg" /></span></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1-Ch1Uic0t4/V0gJckm8ZEI/AAAAAAAAAvs/kNRKmxKH6e4NLlZEYp9jx8gvxSyeGoZdwCLcB/s1600/94646f0d0ba0a0f2f8d1091089846528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"></span></a><span style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sarà questo l'evento che segnerà il punto di svolta nella sua vita. Inizia così a lavorare per Travis Banton, capo del dipartimento di costumi degli studios, che diventerà il suo mentore</span>.</span><br />
<span lang="IT" style="color: black; font-family: "courier new"; line-height: 115%;"><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="IT" style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">E’ l’inizio di una <strong><span style="font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">sfolgorante carriera</span></strong><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">:</b><strong><span style="font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;"> 1131 film, 35 nominations all’Oscar e otto premi vinti</span></strong><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">, </b>tanto da guadagnarsi una stella nella
famosa Walk of Fame</span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="IT" style="font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">E' negli anni 50 che raggiunge
l'apice della sua carriera. In questo periodo oltre a creare abiti per le stars
pubblica anche dei libri sulla storia della moda e partecipa a shows televisivi.</span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<em><span lang="IT" style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Un posto al sole, La finestra
di fronte, Colazione da Tiffany, Eva contro Eva, Viale del tramonto,
Vacanze romane, Caccia al ladro, Sabrina, La donna che visse due volte, Sansone
e Dalila, La stangata, Gli uccelli</span></em><span lang="IT" style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">, Notorius sono solo alcuni degli<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b><strong><span style="font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-weight: normal;">innumerevoli capolavori che portano la sua firma.</span></strong></span><span lang="IT" style="font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span lang="IT" style="color: black; font-family: "courier new"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="IT" style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal;">La collaborazione</span></span><span lang="IT" style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> più
lunga è stata sicuramente con Alfred Hitchcock
che la considerava la migliore costumista con la quale abbia mai lavorato.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="IT" style="color: black; font-family: "courier new"; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="IT" style="color: black; font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Nel 1967
lascia la Paramount per la <a href="http://www.universalstudios.com/"><span style="color: blue;">Universal
</span></a>dove lavorerà sino al 1981 quando si spegnerà per un tumore due settimane
dopo la fine della lavorazione del suo ultimo film, <em><span style="font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Courier New";">Dead</span></em> <em><span style="font-family: "verdana" , "sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Courier New";">men
don’t wear plaid</span></em>, nel quale rende omaggio ai film noir
degli anni 40. </span></span></span></div>
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camouflage. Creiamo l’illusione di trasformare gli attori in quello che
non sono”.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Abito per Haudrey Hepburn in Colazione da Tiffany</span><br />
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<span style="color: black;">Il vestito per Elizabeth Taylor in Un posto al sole</span><br />
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<br />Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-79251010443893369732016-05-27T10:24:00.003+02:002016-06-21T10:21:06.334+02:00Corsetti 2016Volevo mostrarvi due corsetti cuciti quest'anno.<br />
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Il primo è un corsetto in taffeta di seta nera con applicato del merletto dorato. E' stato commissionato insieme a una gonna sempre in taffeta di seta.Il merletto dorato applicato sulla gonna richiama quello del corsetto.<br />
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Il secondo è un corsetto in seta shantung viola con applicato del pizzo chantilly.<br />
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In questo momento sto lavorando invece a un corsetto steampunk di cui presto pubblicherò le foto.Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-62154917715038891432016-05-16T12:31:00.003+02:002016-06-21T10:19:43.188+02:00Fili Magici V Edizione!<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5SLvQ5VqDxE/Vzmg9WPMeFI/AAAAAAAAAuo/cGbnQnLwIuw9IzJ3-UB9yLp-CzRwUkdagCLcB/s1600/LOCANDINA%2BA3%2BFILI%2BMAGICI%2Bmail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5SLvQ5VqDxE/Vzmg9WPMeFI/AAAAAAAAAuo/cGbnQnLwIuw9IzJ3-UB9yLp-CzRwUkdagCLcB/s320/LOCANDINA%2BA3%2BFILI%2BMAGICI%2Bmail.jpg" width="226" /></a>Questo weekend (20-22 maggio ) torna al castello della Rovere di Vinovo Fili Magici, la mostra dedicata al ricamo!<br />
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Per l'occasione ho deciso di cimentarmi con il tombolo nell'ateliers del Pizzo Cantu'.<br />
Sarà un modo per apprendere le basi di questa favolosa tecnica!<br />
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Tantissime sono le tecniche di ricamo che potrete ammirare durante la mostra, quindi vi consiglio di non perdere questo meraviglioso appuntamento!<br />
<br />Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-56724628014020824362016-05-11T10:10:00.002+02:002016-06-21T10:26:39.893+02:00Segui Silvia Alphard Couture su Instagram!Non perderti nessuna nuova creazione Silvia Alphard Couture! Da oggi grazie al pulsante "Follow @silviaalphard" che trovi a destra in alto potrai seguirmi anche su Instagram!<br />
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<br />Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-75119426069104890492016-01-27T11:01:00.001+01:002016-06-21T10:27:53.853+02:00Ricamo Luneville , il ricamo dell'alta modaOggi voglio parlarvi di questa particolare tecnica di ricamo, che viene usata nell'haute couture.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YLSekhXZezU/VqiVOtXU2yI/AAAAAAAAAtA/aLnCzZs-h4o/s1600/aecd076cdab4edf9741299c99f355b8f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YLSekhXZezU/VqiVOtXU2yI/AAAAAAAAAtA/aLnCzZs-h4o/s1600/aecd076cdab4edf9741299c99f355b8f.jpg" /></a>Il ricamo Luneville si sviluppa agli inizi del 1800 nella cittadina francese Luneville, nella regione della Lorena.</div>
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Questo tipo di ricamo viene realizzato con un particolare uncinetto, creando dei punti catenella e permettendo di inserire perline e pailletes, su ogni tipo di tessuto, anche i piu' leggeri come organza e tulle. Il ricamo viene realizzato dal rovescio su un telaio di solito rettangolare.</div>
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Grazie a questa tecnica la velocità di esecuzione aumenta e il lavoro è piu' preciso.</div>
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I ricami degli abiti di alta moda vengono realizzati da artigiani specializzati in questo tipo di ricamo.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hIMv2U7Z4RQ/VqiVPdBaR7I/AAAAAAAAAtI/6F3HLqmYauQ/s1600/class%2Bhook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hIMv2U7Z4RQ/VqiVPdBaR7I/AAAAAAAAAtI/6F3HLqmYauQ/s200/class%2Bhook.jpg" width="200" /></a>A Parigi esiste la scuola Lesage dove è possibile effettuare corsi di ricamo Luneville, sia corsi base che di perfezionamento. A Roma e Milano la scuola di ricamo alta moda organizza corsi di 4 giorni per apprendere le basi del Luneville.</div>
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Per informazioni</div>
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http://www.lesage-paris.com/</div>
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http://www.scuoladiricamoaltamoda.it/</div>
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Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-55812025657720544212016-01-07T16:05:00.002+01:002016-07-05T12:08:53.912+02:00Anna Anni , La musa di Zeffirelli - Biografie di costumisti famosi<span id="evid" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #464646; font-family: "georgia" , "palatino" , serif; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: inherit; line-height: 21px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><a href="file:///D:/users/u123827/Desktop/Costumisti%20Famosi/Anna%20anni/Zeffirelli%20racconta%20Anna%20Anni%20la%20%C3%82%C2%ABpiccola%20grande%20costumista%C3%82%C2%BB.html#" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: content-box; color: #003366; font-family: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><img border="0" src="http://dizionari.corriere.it/images/info.gif" style="border: currentColor; box-sizing: content-box; display: inline; font-family: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; height: 26px; line-height: inherit; margin: -20px 0px 0px -20px; max-width: 100%; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; position: absolute; vertical-align: middle; width: 26px;" title="Esplora il significato del termine: «Ho sempre amato il teatro, l’ opera, il cinema, ma non pensavo proprio di diventare costumista, è avvenuto tutto per caso...»" /></a></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">«Ho sempre amato il teatro, l' opera, il cinema, ma non pensavo proprio di diventare costumista, è avvenuto tutto per caso...»</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Cosi' raccontava Anna Anni, </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;">una signora semplicissima quanto geniale. </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;"> Anna è nata a Marradi, al confine tra la Toscana e la Romagna. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">«</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Fui adottata da due persone che ho amato molto, ho trascorso un' infanzia bellissima in campagna, in un borghetto medievale dove il tempo pareva essersi fermato». Poi si trasferì a Firenze, arrivò la guerra, anni duri. Ha cominciato dipingendo ceramiche, giocattoli, foulard; poi attrezzista teatrale «un po' all' arrembaggio, però mi è servito eccome».</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Dopo l' apprendistato fiorentino, nel 1951 Orson Welles si rivolge all' architetto Aristo Ciruzzi per le scenografie di due spettacoli da allestire a Chicago. «Aristo fece il mio nome per i costumi </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">».</span></span><br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3cyyubKhQX8/Vo58OCEuhBI/AAAAAAAAAsU/GaoKKJpxRCs/s1600/bozzetto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3cyyubKhQX8/Vo58OCEuhBI/AAAAAAAAAsU/GaoKKJpxRCs/s200/bozzetto.jpg" width="141" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p_WkCOoa7H8/Vo57b2zkxBI/AAAAAAAAArk/srPrtIIDWxE/s1600/2762A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p_WkCOoa7H8/Vo57b2zkxBI/AAAAAAAAArk/srPrtIIDWxE/s200/2762A.jpg" width="135" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;">Esordisce nel 1953 </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;">creando i costumi del </span><span style="background-color: white; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;">Volpone</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;"> di </span><span style="background-color: white; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;">Jonson</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;"> e de</span><span style="background-color: white; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;"> La Locandiera</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;"> goldoniana, entrambi diretti da</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;">Orson Welles. Proprio </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;">Orson Welles innamorato del suo talento, negli anni ´50, tentò senza successo di portarla in America.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Consegnati i disegni, Orson la invitò in Usa per vedere gli spettacoli: «Mi prese il panico, che ci andavo a fare, non conoscevo nemmeno la lingua? Mi scrisse che era contento del successo ma dispiaciuto che non fossi andata</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">»</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Costumista ma anche insegnante:</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">«</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;">Sono sempre stata dietro le quinte, non ho mai voluto rubare spazio ai registi per i quali ho lavorato. Per tutta la vita ho insegnato disegno alla scuola Tornabuoni. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">La notte andavo a Roma sul set, il giorno dopo ero al mio posto </span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 20px; text-align: left;">d´insegnante.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Una cosa di cui vado fiera è la confessione di una mia studentessa che mi disse: "Signora Anni lei con me è sempre stata paziente ed è riuscita ad insegnarmi i segreti del suo mestiere"»</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;">Ha </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;">lavorato accanto a maestri quali Mauro Bolognini, Franco Zeffirelli, Sandro Sequi, Orson Welles, Luchino Visconti.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Zeffirelli la ricorda così: </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">«</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Piccolina, timidissima e però dal carattere di ferro. Con me ha lavorato in 15 spettacoli grandiosi, dall' Aida di Busseto a quella di Verona, Cavalleria e Pagliacci alla Scala, per Carmen al Met ha realizzato 480 costumi. E Anna sempre a dire che c' è qualcuno meglio di lei.</span></span><br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GRMjhnF-p6I/Vo57l4yRXDI/AAAAAAAAArs/WPuVfPMtVoo/s1600/maria%2Bstuarda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GRMjhnF-p6I/Vo57l4yRXDI/AAAAAAAAArs/WPuVfPMtVoo/s200/maria%2Bstuarda.jpg" width="153" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aiH1ocYyIzg/Vo57s977I_I/AAAAAAAAAr0/XDeh91bXv0I/s1600/6-Maria-Stuarda-1983.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aiH1ocYyIzg/Vo57s977I_I/AAAAAAAAAr0/XDeh91bXv0I/s200/6-Maria-Stuarda-1983.png" width="129" /></a><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Anna era dotata di grande talento, forse più di tutti noi, ma era schiva, modesta. La conoscenza del taglio storico e la minuziosa ricerca del particolare hanno reso i suoi costumi straordinari, emblemi di preziose evocazioni storiche. Mi commossi nel vedere i costumi che aveva disegnato per Maria Stuarda con le due primedonne Valentina Cortese e Rossella Falk per un' indimenticabile Carmen all' Arena di Verona. Ma tutte le sue cose erano bellissime ed hanno trionfato nei teatri più prestigiosi del mondo».</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HejQ2C2fREg/Vo579EB22iI/AAAAAAAAAr8/mRIlw1NIBQM/s1600/4-Anni-A.2b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HejQ2C2fREg/Vo579EB22iI/AAAAAAAAAr8/mRIlw1NIBQM/s200/4-Anni-A.2b.jpg" width="150" /></a><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">«Anna - riprende Zeffirelli - è un personaggio incredibile, un patrimonio della cultura di cui gli italiani non si sono mai accorti. Ha sempre una visione precisa, si casca sempre sul sicuro. La sua straordinaria qualità è il mondo non tradizionale ma classico, come dipinge, come schizza i bozzetti, non c' è nessuno che usa l' aquarello come lei, anche se fa di tutto per farci cambiare idea, imbarazzante com' è per la sua umiltà.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Zeffirelli ancora racconta: «In un dispettoso pianeta abitato da gente sempre pronta a voler sembrare migliore di quello che è, lei svettava più alta di tutti. Anche se bisognava - e quasi mai ci sono riuscito - farla uscire dalla sua palude di umiltà e modestia che a volte, confesso, mi appariva perfino insopportabile: appena le si diceva brava lei scuoteva subito la testa schernendosi con imbarazzo. A Firenze pranzavamo insieme nelle trattoria di Santo Spirito». </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">E proprio nel 2006 sfiorò l´Oscar per i costumi dell'Otello di Franco Zeffirelli .</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Anna non si faceva certo pregare per raccontare il suo primo incontro con Zeffirelli: «Mi presentai una domenica mattina alle 8 nell´appartamento che Tosi divideva con Zeffirelli e Bolognini a Roma, vicino a piazza di Spagna. Mi venne ad aprire Alfredo Bianchini che mi apostrofò dicendo: Nini, o che si viene nelle case a quest´ora?»</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Nel ´65 poi Anna Anni realizzò le scene per "La lupa" con Anna Magnani. «Mi ricordo una scena in cui seduta su una fascina recitava a bassa voce, senza guardare il pubblico, come se stesse parlando con se stessa. Straordinaria, non ho più visto recitare a quel modo»</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;">Ha disegnato abiti di scena per Carla Fracci, Anna Fracci, Paolo Poli, Placido Domingo, </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ACt28SBaNe8/Vo58EMS4uOI/AAAAAAAAAsE/n2PJ717he00/s1600/8207_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ACt28SBaNe8/Vo58EMS4uOI/AAAAAAAAAsE/n2PJ717he00/s200/8207_1.jpg" width="140" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Maria Callas, Rudolf Nureyev, Luciano Pavarotti. P<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;">articolarmente luminosa è stata la sua collaborazione per i costumi dei balletti allestiti dalla coppia Fracci-Menegatti, tra i quali occorre ricordare Le baiser de la fèe di Stravinskij (Scala ´75) e Don Chisciotte (Comunale di Firenze ´84).</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 20px;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Nel 2006 Palazzo Pitti le dedica una mostra. <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Nell' itinerario della mostra veniva mostrato come ricostruiva il mondo iconografico e visivo, lo studio delle fonti che attingono ai materiali più eterogenei, opere d' arte, stampe, ritrattistica, disegni su ceramica.</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">O la letteratura. Assimilato il mondo a cui si ispira, passa al lavoro grafico, ed è il momento creativo.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Sempre nel 2006 firma il successo del Don Giovanni di Zeffirelli all'opera di Roma.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">«Rispetto alle mie tendenze per le cose storiche, è stato un lavoro abbastanza inventato perché l' idea era di fare un compromesso, un connubio tra ' 500</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;"> e ' 700».</span></span><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vbRtoyhpxP0/Vo58IcEd6II/AAAAAAAAAsM/CQhNBG5Xjfc/s1600/8211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vbRtoyhpxP0/Vo58IcEd6II/AAAAAAAAAsM/CQhNBG5Xjfc/s200/8211.jpg" width="140" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;"> I costumi di Anna Anni lasciano la</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;"> platea di stucco, Don Giovani ne cambia tre, l' ultimo in velluto nero bordato di blu; tre ne avrà anche Donna Anna, broccati di tipo diverso con sopra gioielli e passamanerie: «Ce n' è uno che pesa 15 chili ma è così bello che non lo sento addosso!». </span></span><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6S1Hmz43DRk/Vo58t7aB4TI/AAAAAAAAAsk/OAItmRyLhAo/s1600/8213_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6S1Hmz43DRk/Vo58t7aB4TI/AAAAAAAAAsk/OAItmRyLhAo/s200/8213_2.jpg" width="148" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3cyyubKhQX8/Vo58OCEuhBI/AAAAAAAAAsU/GaoKKJpxRCs/s1600/bozzetto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Zeffirelli descrive così il lavoro di Anna per il Don Giovanni: </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">«</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Anna ha riprodotto il mondo esatto, la visione goyesca, settecentesca, del mondo spagnolo, l' arrivo dei contadini lasciava a bocca aperta. La conosco dall' infanzia, a Firenze, lei frequentava l' Istituto d' Arte di Porta Romana, nella stessa classe di Piero Tosi e Danilo Donati; io sono un po' più grande di loro, ero all' Accademia delle Belle Arti. Poi abbiamo cominciato a frequentarci»</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">. Anna pensa a Danilo, «un ragazzo di una vivacità e creatività straordinarie, in piedi su uno sgabello a fare l' imitazione di Wanda Osiris... E Piero, seguirlo in biblioteca, mentre si documentava, ha voluto dire apprendere un metodo di lavoro prezioso, lui aveva proprio la vocazione per il </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">costume, mi ha fatto capire l' importanza della forma e della linea ».</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;">Sempre Zeffirelli racconta un curioso anneddoto :</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">«</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Anna riusciva spesso a mandarmi su tutte le furie. All' Alcina di Haendel con Joan Sutherland nel ' 60, rischiammo di non andare in scena perché travolta dalle centinaia di costumi meravigliosi a cui stava lavorando, si era semplicemente dimenticata dei costumi della protagonista. La</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> dovetti chiudere a chiave in sartoria per due notti. Fu un trionfo».</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wUqrPorrYFM/Vo58UJF8-kI/AAAAAAAAAsc/pXROlOs4sKw/s1600/04418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wUqrPorrYFM/Vo58UJF8-kI/AAAAAAAAAsc/pXROlOs4sKw/s200/04418.jpg" width="157" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;">Tra gli ultimi lavori firmati da </span><span style="background-color: white; border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;">Anna Anni</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;"> si ricordano l'</span><span style="background-color: white; border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;">Aida</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;"> "in miniatura" – andata in scena al Teatro Verdi di Busseto in occasione del Centenario Verdiano e che tanto successo ha ottenuto in tutta Europa – l'</span><span style="background-color: white; border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;">Aida</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;"> kolossal all'Arena di Verona – e i costumi per due grandi produzioni cinematografiche dirette da </span><span style="background-color: white; border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;">Franco Zeffirelli</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;">: </span><span style="background-color: white; border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;">Un tè con Mussolini</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;"> e </span><span style="background-color: white; border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; line-height: 21.6px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;">Callas forever</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21.6px; text-align: justify;">. </span></span><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-REvB3txhP6A/Vo55YBDvB9I/AAAAAAAAArQ/oSdeVniHMRc/s1600/BMFI_ANNA_ANNI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-REvB3txhP6A/Vo55YBDvB9I/AAAAAAAAArQ/oSdeVniHMRc/s320/BMFI_ANNA_ANNI.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Anna si è spenta il 1 gennaio 2011 all'età di 84 anni.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Anna racconta con passione in questo bellissimo video come svolgeva il suo lavoro di costumista:</span></span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/66659482" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe>
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/66659482">I costumi di Anna Anni - Fondazione Cerratelli</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/jackjonze">Iacopo Navari</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-91251445598909460622016-01-07T11:22:00.000+01:002016-07-05T12:11:28.066+02:00Biografie di costumisti famosi<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Finalmente con il nuovo anno posso tornare ad aggiornare il mio blog.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Ho pensato di raccogliere sul blog le biografie, i bozzetti, le foto di costumisti che hanno lasciato il segno.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Di solito nei film si ammirano stupendi costumi, ma ben poco si sa di chi c'è dietro, quindi mi piacerebbe rendere omaggio a chi ha realizzato tali capolavori.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Tra i primi nomi di cui mi occuperò: Anna Anni, Edith Head, Dorothy Jeakins e Charles LeMaire.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Stay tuned!</span></div>
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Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-72774665327407101522014-06-21T08:27:00.002+02:002016-06-21T10:30:33.659+02:00Brand new jade green ribbon corsetJust finished and put on sale on etsy:<br />
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https://www.etsy.com/listing/193707733/victorian-jade-green-ribbon-corset-ready?Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-5546745326427180082014-05-20T09:59:00.001+02:002014-05-20T09:59:45.242+02:00Sfilata Silvia Alphard Couture - Vaporosamente- fotoAlcune foto della mia sfilata tenutasi a Vaporosamente 2014 - Torino 18 maggio:<br />
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Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-8751737070450632912014-05-09T15:22:00.002+02:002014-05-09T15:25:23.770+02:0018 maggio 2014 - L'allegra giostra di Vaporosamente ritorna...e Silvia Alphard Couture non mancherà!<strong><span class="userContent">Save the date: </span><span class="userContent">18 maggio 2014, ore 16:30 Docks Dora Torino!</span></strong><br />
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<span class="userContent">Nella cornice industrial- steampunk dei Docks Dora (via Valprato 68, Torino) si terrà la prima sfilata dell'anno di <a href="https://www.facebook.com/SilviaAlphardCouture" target="_blank">Silvia Alphard Couture</a> , durante la quale verranno presentati 3 nuovi outfit. </span><br />
<span class="userContent">11 modelle sfileranno per voi indossando le mie creazioni!</span><br />
<span class="userContent">Il trucco sarà a cura della fantastica make up artist <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Lexia_Glamour/586256414794021?fref=ts" target="_blank">Lexia Glamour</a>.</span><br />
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<span class="userContent">Programma Vaporosamente:</span><br />
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Il Mago Berok presenta<span class="text_exposed_hide">...</span><span class="text_exposed_show"><br /> 10.30 Bartolomeo Bosco. Il mago che affascinò lo zar.</span><br />
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<span class="userContent"><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=100005405404664&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/luca.tarenzi.37">Luca Tarenzi</a></span><br />
<span class="userContent">I Mostri esistono. </span><br />
<span class="userContent">11.30 Cosa accadeva quando un uomo antico si trovava in mano un fossile?</span><br />
<span class="userContent">12.00 Saluti delle istituzioni</span><br />
<span class="userContent"><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=1633389642&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/luca.spessa.9">Luca Spessa</a> </span><br />
<span class="userContent">12.30 Nikola Tesla. Il genio dimenticato </span><br />
<span class="userContent"><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=100006062679219&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/davide.delpopoloriolo">Davide Del Popolo Riolo</a></span><br />
<span class="userContent">13.30 Il futuro nell'antica Roma: De bello alieno</span><br />
<span class="userContent"><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=1650795989&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/andrea.falaschi">Andrea Falaschi</a></span><br />
<span class="userContent">14.30La profezia del futuro del dott. Falaschi </span><br />
<span class="userContent"><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=1385739380&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/dario.tonani">Dario Tonani</a>, <a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=100002407464384&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/pasquale.ruju">Pasquale Ruju</a>, introduce Fernando Rotondo</span><br />
<span class="userContent">15.30 Da Stephen King allo steampunk, dallo shining al vapore. Percorsi nella letteratura e nel fumetto di genere </span><br />
<span class="userContent">16.00 Sfilata competitiva a cura di Cos&play actions</span><br />
<span class="userContent"><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=1557993813&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/silvia.sergianni">Silvia Sergianni</a></span><br />
<span class="userContent">16.20 Appunti di moda d'altri tempi</span><br />
<span class="userContent"><strong>16.30 </strong><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=1427005911&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/SilviaAlphardCouture?fref=photo" target="_blank"><strong>Silvia Alphard Couture</strong></a><strong> Couture presenta la sua collezione victorian-steam</strong> </span><br />
<span class="userContent"><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=651338227&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/luca.enoch">Luca Enoch</a> </span><br />
<span class="userContent">17.00 La tecnologia nel fantasy di <a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/page.php?id=443358525732012&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/DragoneroSergioBonelliEditore">Dragonero</a> </span><br />
<span class="userContent"><a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=552337685&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/twmband">Augusto Chiarle</a>, <a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=1588370470&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/stefano.marchetti.104">Stefano Marchetti</a>, <a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=1508055439&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/roberto.cera.3">Roberto Cera</a></span><br />
<span class="userContent">18.00 Lo steampunk. Curiosità osservazioni e misteri di un fenomeno culturale </span><br />
<span class="userContent">Il Mago Berok presenta</span><br />
<span class="userContent">19.00 Bartolomeo Bosco. Il mago che affascinò lo zar.</span><br />
<span class="userContent">20.00 Aperisteam e vaporose note </span><br />
<span class="userContent">21.30 Spegnimento delle macchine</span><br />
<span class="userContent">Durante l'evento potrete inoltre seguire tutorial a cura di Steampunk Italia, consumare ottimi pasti con la collaborazione di <a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/page.php?id=369253156547066&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Primosenso/369253156547066">Primosenso</a> e partecipare ali <a class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/event.php?id=531985620247651&extragetparams=%7B%22directed_target_id%22%3A1399884353619213%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/events/531985620247651/">Mini-Stage a Vaporosa Mente!</a></span><br />
<span class="userContent">Non mancate and stay steam!!!!</span></div>
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</span>Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-84118310562668558612014-03-11T11:28:00.000+01:002015-12-02T15:01:19.656+01:00Prices and measurement forms<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span><br />
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Silvia Alphard Couture provides corsets and historically inspired dresses made on measure.<br />
<span class="text_exposed_show"><br />Prices:<br /> Corset underbust from 160 euro<br /> Corset overbust from 190 euro<br />Ribbon corset from 170 euro (use the underbust form)<br />
Waistcoat corset: 230 euro<br /> Bloomers from 65 euro <br /> Skirts from 70 euro<br /> Shrug/Bolero from 70 euro<br /> Vest from 70 euro<br /> Cape from 70 euro<br /> Historical Costumes from 300 euro<br />
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Corset are available in taffeta or duchesse satin. To see the available colors go to this link:<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzkED0dd-ZM9Ym0wUlNVMGJGWG8/edit?usp=sharing">https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzkED0dd-ZM9Ym0wUlNVMGJGWG8/edit?usp=sharing</a><br />
<strong>Please download the pdf file for a proper display of colors(to dowload press the arrow on the left or CTRL+S).</strong></span><span class="text_exposed_show"><br /><br />Please note: Custom corsets or dresses usually require 4-7 weeks to be constructed and shipped starting from receipt of payment, measurements and fabric selection. All items are shipped via Courier or registered post.<br /> Buyer is responsible for any and all customs duties and taxes that may be applied.<br /><br /> The payment must be made forward.<br /><br /> Silvia Alphard couture is not responsible for corsets or dresses made to incorrect measurements supplied by the customer. Changes of measurements while working is in progress are not possible.<br /> All sales are final.<br /><br /> To provide me your measures you can use one of the following measurement form:</span><br />
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<li><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1k4nGPrXrpcpRqkZj3u5n7FkOmIJny_XAb4_itaDXadg/viewform" target="_blank">FORM UNDERBUST</a></span></li>
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<li><a href="https://docs.google.com/forms/d/13BTlU47XnMNMyIbrqb4ZcuSFOkOlQeZCifQCIWjuScQ/viewform" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">FORM OVERBUST</span></a></li>
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<li><a href="https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1zikCUYBtvRXOh_oi47d0JIgIgaR6edmIInP3TYVFzPQ/viewform" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">FORM SKIRTS AND BLOOMERS</span></a></li>
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Leave your email in the form and you will be contact asap.<br />
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<br />Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-82691654171753293422014-02-03T15:17:00.001+01:002014-02-03T15:17:01.823+01:00Panier, petticoat, crinoline, farthingales, tournure, bustle.....facciamo chiarezza!Per le appassionate di costume storico sicuramente questi non sono termini nuovi, ma spesso si fa una grossa confusione quando ci si riferisce a esse.<br />
Vediamo di fare chiarezza, cercando di seguire un ordine cronologico:<br />
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<ul><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M1nPS7O6vjc/UuizZttkvQI/AAAAAAAAAgg/Pbkv-bRicPI/s1600/434PX-~1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M1nPS7O6vjc/UuizZttkvQI/AAAAAAAAAgg/Pbkv-bRicPI/s1600/434PX-~1.JPG" height="320" width="231" /></a>
<li><strong>Guardainfante (farthingales, verdugado):</strong> di origine spagnola, risale al XV secolo. Le prime erano gonne costituite da una struttura composta da cerchi di vimini. Sembra che Giovanna d'Aviz, regina di Castilla e Aragona,la indosso' per nascondere le sue 2 gravidanze illegittime, da qui il termine di guardainfante. Il guardinfante francese noto come 'Wheel Farthingales' nacque negli ambienti di corte francesi e venne introdotto nei primi anni del 1500 in Inghilterra. Il materiale più comune per irrigidire i guardainfanti erano delle corde leggere, elastiche e flessibili fatte di vimini. Solo più tardi si comincio a utilizzare i cerchi di osso di balena. Venivano nascoste sotto le sottogonne o gli abiti, tranne alcuni casi in cui venivano realizzate con tessuti pregiati e quindi destinati ad essere viste. (ad esempio il guardinfante di Salome').</li>
</ul>
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<ul><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YjroiVFvksA/UujBSEr83TI/AAAAAAAAAg4/k_MakCiXMS0/s1600/imagesCA3WUWMF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YjroiVFvksA/UujBSEr83TI/AAAAAAAAAg4/k_MakCiXMS0/s1600/imagesCA3WUWMF.jpg" height="137" width="200" /></a>
<li><strong>Panier (pannier, side</strong> <strong>hoops</strong>): ebbe origine nel XVII secolo in Spagna. Ne abbiamo indizio nei ritratti dei reali spagnoli del pittore Velaquez. Si diffuse poi in Francia nel XVIII secolo e da li in tutta Europa. Inizialmente indicava una struttura a forma di cupola formata da cerchi di dimensione digradante dall'orlo alla vita. Veniva costruita con cerchi di bambù o stecche di balena. </li>
</ul>
Nel XVIII secolo l'espressione indicò una struttura diversa che amplificava, in forma via via più ellittica, il volume della gonna. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IGNLI0GoxU8/UujIgv9XaqI/AAAAAAAAAhI/O_MqCcbexNg/s1600/Panier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IGNLI0GoxU8/UujIgv9XaqI/AAAAAAAAAhI/O_MqCcbexNg/s1600/Panier.jpg" height="200" width="187" /></a></div>
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Il termine di origine francese indicava i cesti di vimini che venivano appesi su entrambi i lati di un animale da soma.<br />
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<ul><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IYK8A6sqNi8/UujUzs60ZCI/AAAAAAAAAhY/ILg42EN23TA/s1600/PETTICOATS-1900.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IYK8A6sqNi8/UujUzs60ZCI/AAAAAAAAAhY/ILg42EN23TA/s1600/PETTICOATS-1900.jpg" height="174" width="320" /></a>
<li><strong>Petticoat (sottogonna):</strong> è una sottogonna che veniva indossata sotto una gonna o un abito. Originaria della fine del 16 secolo, e<span title="Petticoats were a rather attractive undergarment trimmed with lace and embroidered with silk.">ran un indumento intimo piuttosto attraente, guarnita con pizzo e ricamata con seta. Venivavano realizzati in cotone o lana, le più stravaganti in seta trapuntata o raso dipinto. Nell'America coloniale venivano trapuntate con strati di cotone o ovatta, anche per proteggersi dal freddo. Nel 1800 le donne indossavano diversi strati di sottogonne, costituite da tessuti molto rigidi, proprio per conferire maggiore volume agli abiti, Quando il peso delle sottogonne divenne intollerabile si passo alla Crinolina.</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</li>
</ul>
<ul><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zj83HOMawPg/UujXt70Ek3I/AAAAAAAAAhk/mVbhnbmo1fU/s1600/untitled.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zj83HOMawPg/UujXt70Ek3I/AAAAAAAAAhk/mVbhnbmo1fU/s1600/untitled.png" /></a>
<li><strong>Crinolina ( crinoline, hoop skirt):</strong> il termine indica in origine un tessuto rigido con una trama a crine di cavallo e un ordito di filo di cotone o lino. Nella seconda metà del 19 secolo il termine cominciò però ad indicare una sottogonna rigida o una struttura costituita da cerchi di metallo o osso di balena progettata per supportare una gonna o un abito conferendole la forma desiderata. L'origine è sicuramente quella del guardinfante, ma la crinolina veniva portata molto più bassa.Inoltre a differenza del guardinfante venne indossata da donne di ogni classe sociale. Venne adottata per sostituire l'uso delle numerose, ingombranti e costose sottogonne. La crinolina ebbe diverse forme e dimensioni, a campana, ellittica, ecc... </li>
</ul>
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<ul><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fezCVfCoYfo/UujdyeFOXqI/AAAAAAAAAh4/df84kSGiEYI/s1600/433px-USpatent63234_1867.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fezCVfCoYfo/UujdyeFOXqI/AAAAAAAAAh4/df84kSGiEYI/s1600/433px-USpatent63234_1867.gif" height="200" width="144" /></a>
<li><strong>Demi crinoline:</strong> era una crinolina asimmetrica, piatta nella parte anteriore e rigonfia su quella posteriore, tenuta rigida da una mezza gabbia di ossi di balena. Arrivava fino a terra ed aveva la forma simile a quella della una coda di pavone . Questo nuovo tipo di crinolina fu l'antesignano della tournure. Venne inventata da Charles Freedrick Worth, al quale si fa risalire l'origine della haute couture francese e la nascita della figura del couturier come creatore di fogge in senso moderno. Con Worth il couturier cominciò ad essere considerato un artista.</li>
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<ul><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eWdWrXOEg9U/UujceBe2GQI/AAAAAAAAAhw/DJv2oGYzCps/s1600/tournure.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eWdWrXOEg9U/UujceBe2GQI/AAAAAAAAAhw/DJv2oGYzCps/s1600/tournure.png" height="200" width="113" /></a>
</ul>
<strong></strong><br />
<ul>
<li><strong>Tournure o bustle</strong>: quando l'ampiezza delle crinoline cominciò a diventare eccessivo (si dice che raggiunse i 7 metri di circonferenza), questa venne sostituita prima dalla demi crinoline e successivamente dalla tournure. Siamo nella seconda metà dell'800. La linea "a sellino" tipica della tournure veniva accentuata anche dagli abiti, ricchi di drappeggi e volant nella parte posteriore. In epoca edwardiana la tournure continuò la sua esistenza come imbottitura, detta <i><strong>cul de Paris.</strong></i></li>
</ul>
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<br />Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-65661579868980566412014-01-28T16:05:00.001+01:002014-01-28T16:06:06.969+01:00Which old post you would like to see translated in english?<span class="hps">I turn </span><span class="hps">to my </span> <span class="hps">english readers</span><span class="hps">.</span><br />
<span class="hps">For</span> <span class="hps">reasons of time</span> <span class="hps">I will not be</span> <span class="hps">possible to translate</span> <span class="hps">all my old posts</span> <span class="hps">in English,</span> <span class="hps">so</span> <span class="hps">I ask you to</span> <span class="hps">tell me</span> <span class="hps">which</span> <span class="hps">you would like</span> <span class="hps">to see translated</span>. <br />
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<span class="hps">Hoping</span> <span class="hps">you would please</span>, I send you <span class="hps">a</span> <span class="hps">warm hug</span>!<br />
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Sincerly <br />
Silvia AlphardSilvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-22991851689377120342014-01-28T15:12:00.000+01:002014-01-28T15:12:23.802+01:00How to distinguish between the various styles of corsets<span class="hps">Corsets</span> <span class="hps">are not all equal</span>, <span class="hps">not only</span> <span class="hps">as regards</span> <span class="hps">the quality</span>, <span class="hps">which I will</span> <span class="hps">next time,</span> <span class="hps">but also</span> <span class="hps">as regards</span> <span class="hps">the styles.</span><br />
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<span class="hps">Most</span> <span class="hps">of you</span> <span class="hps">will know the</span> <span class="hps">classical distinction</span> <span class="hps">between</span> <span class="hps">underbust</span>, <span class="hps">overbust</span>, waist <span class="hps">chincher</span> <span class="hps">/</span> <span class="hps">waspie</span>:<br />
<ul>
<li><strong>Waist chincher o waspie</strong>: it <span class="hps"><span class="hps">is a</span> <span class="hps">very</span> <span class="hps">short corset</span>, it is <span class="hps">like a belt</span> <span class="hps">around the waist</span></span></li>
</ul>
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<a href="http://en.academic.ru/pictures/enwiki/87/Waist_Cincher_1860.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://en.academic.ru/pictures/enwiki/87/Waist_Cincher_1860.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://en.academic.ru/pictures/enwiki/87/Waist_Cincher_1860.gif" height="200" width="157" /></a></div>
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<ul>
<li><strong>Underbust corset</strong>:<span class="hps">Unlike the</span> <span class="hps">waist</span> <span class="hps">chincher</span> <span class="hps">extends</span> <span class="hps">above the hips</span>, <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">get to</span> <span class="hps">surround</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">underbust</span> <span class="hps">better</span>.</li>
</ul>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--DJZJzhKQ34/UudyeFLf_-I/AAAAAAAAAes/77UWqo66hRc/s1600/untitled.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--DJZJzhKQ34/UudyeFLf_-I/AAAAAAAAAes/77UWqo66hRc/s1600/untitled.png" height="175" width="200" /></a></div>
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<li><strong>Overbust corset</strong>: <span class="hps">unlike</span> <span class="hps">the overbust</span> <span class="hps">also extends</span> <span class="hps">above the bust</span></li>
</ul>
<a href="http://en.academic.ru/pictures/enwiki/87/Waist_Cincher_1860.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span id="goog_1051690140"></span><span id="goog_1051690141"></span> </a><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5r90puUPy74/Uudy9MJNsLI/AAAAAAAAAe0/vO6hYBoDZi4/s1600/victorian-corset.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5r90puUPy74/Uudy9MJNsLI/AAAAAAAAAe0/vO6hYBoDZi4/s1600/victorian-corset.gif" height="200" width="166" /></a></div>
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<span class="hps">In addition to these</span> <span class="hps">three</span> <span class="hps">main categories</span><span class="hps"> there are</span> <span class="hps">differences</span> <span class="hps">in the style</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">which a corset is drawn :</span><br />
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<ul><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FgidC659UJg/Uud1CgcsCyI/AAAAAAAAAfE/sKdegmt1O1A/s1600/hourglass.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FgidC659UJg/Uud1CgcsCyI/AAAAAAAAAfE/sKdegmt1O1A/s1600/hourglass.png" height="200" width="155" /></a>
<li><strong>Hourglass corset</strong>: it is <span class="hps">constructed to have</span> <span class="hps">the classic</span> <span class="hps">hourglass figure</span>. <span class="hps">To achieve the hourglass effect</span> <span class="hps">is drawn</span> <span class="hps">follow the</span> <span class="hps">natural shape of the</span> <span class="hps">body</span> <span class="hps">and to have a</span> <span class="hps">reduction only</span> at the waistline<span class="hps"> </span> <span class="hps">(usually</span> <span class="hps">of 10 cm</span>). <span class="hps">The reduction</span> <span class="hps">is applied</span> <span class="hps">mostly</span> <span class="hps">on the side panels.</span></li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li><strong> Conical shape corset:</strong> <span class="hps">unlike that</span> <span class="hps">hourglass</span> it <span class="hps">compresses</span> <span class="hps">more</span> <span class="hps">the chest</span> <span class="hps">above the waist</span>. <span class="hps">The reduction</span> <span class="hps">is applied on</span> <span class="hps">all panels,</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">only a little</span> <span class="hps atn">more </span>on the side panels, <span class="hps">slightly</span> <span class="hps">compressing</span> <span class="hps">the lower ribs</span>. <span class="hps">On the sides</span> it <span class="hps">remains</span> <span class="hps">soft as</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">Hourglass</span> <span class="hps">following the</span> <span class="hps">natural shape of the</span> <span class="hps">body.</span></li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnwywufkwe0/Uud0FLMmV9I/AAAAAAAAAe8/zackzTswlWw/s1600/Pipestem_corset.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnwywufkwe0/Uud0FLMmV9I/AAAAAAAAAe8/zackzTswlWw/s1600/Pipestem_corset.png" height="200" width="170" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><strong>Pipe-Stem corset</strong>: <div id="tts_button">
<span id="result_box" lang="en" tabindex="-1">in this corset the reduction is not only at waistline <span class="hps">but it</span> <span class="hps">extends</span> <span class="hps">a few centimeters</span> <span class="hps">above</span> <span class="hps">the waistline</span>, <span class="hps">giving a</span> <span class="hps">tubular shape</span>. <span class="hps">It</span> <span class="hps atn">'s </span>not <span class="hps">easy to wear</span> <span class="hps">this kind of corset</span>, <span class="hps">as it is very</span> <span class="hps">constricting. It is</span> <span class="hps">especially suitable</span> <span class="hps">for</span> <span class="hps">people who are used</span> <span class="hps">to wearing</span> <span class="hps">corsets.</span> <span class="hps">It</span> <span class="hps atn">'</span>a <span class="hps">modern</span> <span class="hps">corset</span> <span class="hps">that did not exist</span> <span class="hps">in Victorian times</span>.</span></div>
</li>
</ul>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnwywufkwe0/Uud0FLMmV9I/AAAAAAAAAe8/zackzTswlWw/s1600/Pipestem_corset.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><strong></strong></a> </div>
<ul><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BJbaMT880dc/UueC6Qpt4yI/AAAAAAAAAfg/7BCHShLaiVc/s1600/imagesCABDP0YP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BJbaMT880dc/UueC6Qpt4yI/AAAAAAAAAfg/7BCHShLaiVc/s1600/imagesCABDP0YP.jpg" height="200" width="116" /></a>
<li><strong>Edwardian corset aka S-Bend Corset/straigh front Corset:</strong>it <span class="hps">is</span> <span class="hps">constructed so as to</span> <span class="hps">push the</span> <span class="hps">chest forward</span> <span class="hps">and hips</span> <span class="hps">on the back</span>. <span class="hps">It has a</span> <span class="hps">very stiff</span> <span class="hps">busk</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">boning</span> <span class="hps">especially</span> <span class="hps atn">on the front (</span>flat steel bones) <span class="hps">to keep the</span> <span class="hps">front</span> <span class="hps">straight</span>. <span class="hps">It usually present hip gores</span> <span class="hps atn">on the sides (</span>the bones <span class="hps">can be extended</span> <span class="hps">or not</span> <span class="hps">on them)</span></li>
</ul>
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<span class="hps">The picture shows the</span> <span class="hps">different</span> <span class="hps">posture</span> <span class="hps">obtained</span> <span class="hps">from</span> <span class="hps">Edwardian</span> <span class="hps">than</span> <span class="hps">Victorian</span> <span class="hps">corset</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cb6xID4SzqQ/Uud5nUlMbSI/AAAAAAAAAfQ/QgbPo5fH3aY/s1600/Coronet_Corset_Co.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cb6xID4SzqQ/Uud5nUlMbSI/AAAAAAAAAfQ/QgbPo5fH3aY/s1600/Coronet_Corset_Co.gif" height="200" width="117" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QJ5geU5Y7r4/UueFIPSP-XI/AAAAAAAAAfw/FsXf48y3i5U/s1600/edwardian_ribbon_corset.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QJ5geU5Y7r4/UueFIPSP-XI/AAAAAAAAAfw/FsXf48y3i5U/s1600/edwardian_ribbon_corset.gif" height="200" width="170" /></a><strong>Ribbon corset :</strong> it <span class="hps">is</span> <span class="hps">a corset</span> <span class="hps">that was used</span> <span class="hps">mainly</span> <span class="hps">to do sport</span>. <span class="hps">It</span> 's a <span class="hps">lightweight</span> <span class="hps">corset</span> <span class="hps">made with double</span> <span class="hps">satin ribbons.</span> It is <span class="hps">very suitable for</span> <span class="hps">hot summer days.</span> <span class="hps">The reduction of the</span> <span class="hps">waistline </span><span class="hps">is applied</span> <span class="hps">is lower,</span> <span class="hps">and usually</span> <span class="hps">ranges from</span> <span class="hps">5</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">8cm</span>. <span class="hps">The bones</span> <span class="hps">are placed</span> <span class="hps">exclusively</span> <span class="hps">on sides</span> <span class="hps">and close to</span> <span class="hps">busk</span> <span class="hps">and grommets</span>, because <span class="hps">the other panels are</span> <span class="hps">only made with </span><span class="hps">ribbons</span>.</div>
</li>
</ul>
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<strong>Elizabethan corset:</strong> <span class="hps">unlike the</span> <span class="hps">victorian one, </span>it <span class="hps">is not intended to</span> <span class="hps">reduce life</span>, but only <span class="hps">to lift</span> <span class="hps">the bust.</span> <span class="hps">It has a</span> <span class="hps">completely different</span> <span class="hps">construction</span>.</div>
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<!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnwywufkwe0/Uud0FLMmV9I/AAAAAAAAAe8/zackzTswlWw/s1600/Pipestem_corset.png" with "https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnwywufkwe0/Uud0FLMmV9I/AAAAAAAAAe8/zackzTswlWw/s1600/Pipestem_corset.png" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-Rnwywufkwe0%2FUud0FLMmV9I%2FAAAAAAAAAe8%2FzackzTswlWw%2Fs1600%2FPipestem_corset.png&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnwywufkwe0/Uud0FLMmV9I/AAAAAAAAAe8/zackzTswlWw/s1600/Pipestem_corset.png" -->Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-45512303806468403202014-01-28T14:51:00.001+01:002014-01-28T14:51:34.512+01:00Come distinguere tra i vari stili dei corsetti I corsetti non sono tutti uguali, non solo per quanto riguarda la qualità, di cui parlerò la prossima volta, ma anche per quanto riguarda gli stili.<br />
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La maggior parte di voi conoscerà la distinzione classica tra underbust, overbust , waist chincher/waspie:<br />
<ul>
<li><strong>Waist chincher o waspie</strong>: è un corsetto molto corto, è come una cintura intorno alla vita.</li>
</ul>
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<a href="http://en.academic.ru/pictures/enwiki/87/Waist_Cincher_1860.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://en.academic.ru/pictures/enwiki/87/Waist_Cincher_1860.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://en.academic.ru/pictures/enwiki/87/Waist_Cincher_1860.gif" height="200" width="157" /></a></div>
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<ul>
<li><strong>Underbust corset</strong>: a differenza del waist chincher si estende sopra i fianchi, e arriva a cingere meglio il sottoseno. </li>
</ul>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--DJZJzhKQ34/UudyeFLf_-I/AAAAAAAAAes/77UWqo66hRc/s1600/untitled.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--DJZJzhKQ34/UudyeFLf_-I/AAAAAAAAAes/77UWqo66hRc/s1600/untitled.png" height="175" width="200" /></a></div>
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<ul>
<li><strong>Overbust corset</strong>: a differenza dell'overbust si estende anche sopra il seno.</li>
</ul>
<a href="http://en.academic.ru/pictures/enwiki/87/Waist_Cincher_1860.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span id="goog_1051690140"></span><span id="goog_1051690141"></span> </a><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5r90puUPy74/Uudy9MJNsLI/AAAAAAAAAe0/vO6hYBoDZi4/s1600/victorian-corset.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5r90puUPy74/Uudy9MJNsLI/AAAAAAAAAe0/vO6hYBoDZi4/s1600/victorian-corset.gif" height="200" width="166" /></a></div>
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Oltre a queste 3 macro categorie poi ci sono differenze sullo stile in cui viene disegnato un corsetto:<br />
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<ul><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FgidC659UJg/Uud1CgcsCyI/AAAAAAAAAfE/sKdegmt1O1A/s1600/hourglass.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FgidC659UJg/Uud1CgcsCyI/AAAAAAAAAfE/sKdegmt1O1A/s1600/hourglass.png" height="200" width="155" /></a>
<li><strong>Hourglass corset</strong>: è il corsetto vittoriano costruito per avere la classica figura a clessidra. Per ottenere l'effetto clessidra viene disegnato in modo da seguire le forme naturali del corpo e di avere una riduzione solo del punto vita (di solito di 10 cm). La riduzione viene applicata maggiormente sui pannelli laterali</li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li><strong> Conical shape corset:</strong> a differenza di quello a clessidra comprime di più il torace sopra il punto vita. La riduzione viene applicata su tutti i pannelli,e solo poco di piu' sui pannelli laterali, comprimendo leggermente le costole inferiori. Sui fianchi rimane morbido come quello a clessidra seguendo le forme naturali del corpo. </li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnwywufkwe0/Uud0FLMmV9I/AAAAAAAAAe8/zackzTswlWw/s1600/Pipestem_corset.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnwywufkwe0/Uud0FLMmV9I/AAAAAAAAAe8/zackzTswlWw/s1600/Pipestem_corset.png" height="200" width="170" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><strong>Pipe-Stem corset</strong>: in questo caso il corsetto viene disegnato in modo che la riduzione non sia solo nel punto vita ma si estenda di qualche centimetro sopra il punto vita, dando una forma tubulare. E' un corsetto non semplice da indossare, in quanto molto costrittivo, adatto soprattutto a persone abituate a indossare corsetti. E' un corsetto moderno che non esisteva in epoca vittoriana.</li>
</ul>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rnwywufkwe0/Uud0FLMmV9I/AAAAAAAAAe8/zackzTswlWw/s1600/Pipestem_corset.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><strong></strong></a> </div>
<ul><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BJbaMT880dc/UueC6Qpt4yI/AAAAAAAAAfg/7BCHShLaiVc/s1600/imagesCABDP0YP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BJbaMT880dc/UueC6Qpt4yI/AAAAAAAAAfg/7BCHShLaiVc/s1600/imagesCABDP0YP.jpg" height="200" width="116" /></a>
<li><strong>Edwardian corset aka S-Bend Corset/straigh front Corset:</strong> è costruito in modo da spingere il busto in avanti e i fianchi sul retro. Ha un busk molto rigido e le stecche soprattutto sul fronte (stecche piatte) proprio per mantenere il davanti dritto. Di solito viene costruito con degli "hip gores" sui fianchi ( le stecche possono estendersi o meno su di essi)</li>
</ul>
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L'immagine mostra la differente postura data dal corsetto edwardiano rispetto a quello vittoriano:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cb6xID4SzqQ/Uud5nUlMbSI/AAAAAAAAAfQ/QgbPo5fH3aY/s1600/Coronet_Corset_Co.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cb6xID4SzqQ/Uud5nUlMbSI/AAAAAAAAAfQ/QgbPo5fH3aY/s1600/Coronet_Corset_Co.gif" height="200" width="117" /></a></div>
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<ul>
<li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QJ5geU5Y7r4/UueFIPSP-XI/AAAAAAAAAfw/FsXf48y3i5U/s1600/edwardian_ribbon_corset.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QJ5geU5Y7r4/UueFIPSP-XI/AAAAAAAAAfw/FsXf48y3i5U/s1600/edwardian_ribbon_corset.gif" height="200" width="170" /></a><strong>Ribbon corset :</strong> è un corsetto che veniva utilizzato soprattutto per fare sport. E' un corsetto leggero fatto solo con nastri di raso, molto adatto per le calde giornate estive. La riduzione della vita che viene applicata è minore , e di solito va da i 5 agli 8cm. Le stecche sono poste esclusivamente lateralmente e vicino al busk e agli occhielli, in quanto i pannelli sono sostituiti da nastri di raso.</div>
</li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<strong>Corsetto elisabettiano:</strong> il corsetto elisabettiano a differenza di quello 800tesco, non si propone di ridurre la vita, ma solo di alzare il seno. Ha una costruzione quindi completamente diversa. </div>
</li>
<strong><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w9iQDvHLqG0/UueDtMYY76I/AAAAAAAAAfo/vwK7noY-u38/s1600/corsets.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w9iQDvHLqG0/UueDtMYY76I/AAAAAAAAAfo/vwK7noY-u38/s1600/corsets.gif" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-67739551669313979792014-01-17T10:15:00.002+01:002014-01-17T10:16:43.729+01:00Propositi per il nuovo anno - Resolutions for the New Year<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Quest'anno ho intenzione di tradurre tutti i miei post in inglese, in modo da dare un respiro internazionale al mio blog.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ma lettrici\ori italiane\i non si dovranno preoccupare! Il blog sarà bilingue, inglese e italiano!</span> <br />
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<a href="http://www.oakland.k12.mi.us/Portals/0/Learning/English.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.oakland.k12.mi.us/Portals/0/Learning/English.jpg" height="133" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="hps">This year</span> <span class="hps">I'm going to</span> <span class="hps">translate</span> <span class="hps">all my posts</span> <span class="hps">in English,</span> <span class="hps">in order to give</span> <span class="hps">an international feel</span> <span class="hps">to my blog.</span></span><br />
<span class="hps"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But italian readers <span class="hps">you will not have</span> <span class="hps">to worry about</span>! <span class="hps">The blog will be</span> <span class="hps">bilingual</span>, English and <span class="hps">Italian</span>!</span></span>Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-78782084115429160482014-01-14T15:12:00.000+01:002014-01-14T15:12:18.927+01:00Come rivestire i canali per le stecchePer costruire le stecche esternamente ho acquistato del nastro tubulare apposito. Volendo ricoprire le stecche con lo stesso tessuto del corsetto, i passi da seguire sono i seguenti:<br />
<ol>
<li>Tagliare una striscia di tessuto larga 5cm e lunga quanto il canale che stiamo considerando (il canale sarà lungo quanto ogni stecca).</li>
<li>Appuntare il canale sulla striscia con degli spilli. Rifilare con la forbice zig zag (o a macchina con lo zig zag) i lati della striscia. </li>
<li>Piegare un lato e stirare la piegatura</li>
<li>Appuntare il lato piegato sul canale e cucire a punto lungo 4 ( imbastitura a macchina)</li>
<li>Ripiegare l'altro lato e appuntare con gli spilli</li>
<li>Cucire l'ultimo lato con punto imbastitura a macchina</li>
</ol>
Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-23226965706261211952014-01-01T15:53:00.000+01:002014-01-28T15:54:15.797+01:00Book review: The art of Manipulating Fabric<div class="separator" style="border: currentColor; clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dwXk2bTEpM8/Tp1uMJBrKHI/AAAAAAAAAHs/Au6p4PuDFzE/s1600/craft_book.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dwXk2bTEpM8/Tp1uMJBrKHI/AAAAAAAAAHs/Au6p4PuDFzE/s320/craft_book.jpg" height="320" oda="true" width="236" /></a></div>
<span class="hps">Today I wanted to</span> <span class="hps">tell you about this</span> <span class="hps">amazing book</span>. <br />
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<span class="hps">The book presents</span> <span class="hps">several techniques to</span> <span class="hps">manipulate the</span> <span class="hps">fabrics</span>. <span class="hps">Each</span> <span class="hps">chapter describes</span> <span class="hps"> different techniques.</span> <br />
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<span class="hps">It start</span>s <span class="hps">from the simplest</span> <span class="hps">such</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">gathering the</span> <span class="hps">fabric</span>, <span class="hps">how to create</span> <span class="hps">ruffles,</span> <span class="hps">how to create</span> <span class="hps">different types of</span> <span class="hps">folds</span> <span class="hps">to the more complex</span> <span class="hps">concerning the</span> <span class="hps">smocking</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">many variations</span>, <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">cording</span> <span class="hps">(which can</span> <span class="hps">also be useful</span> <span class="hps">for corsets</span>) <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">quilting</span>. <br />
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<span class="hps">The explanations</span> <span class="hps">are clear enough</span> <span class="hps">and</span> next to them <span class="hps">are present </span><span class="hps">explanatory</span> <span class="hps">drawings and</span> <span class="hps">images.</span><br />
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<span class="hps">Who would you</span> <span class="hps">recommend</span>? <span class="hps">To all those who</span> <span class="hps">love to experiment with</span> <span class="hps">fabric</span>, <span class="hps">to those who are</span> <span class="hps">interested in learning</span> <span class="hps">the art</span> <span class="hps">of manipulating it</span> <span class="hps">to create</span> <span class="hps">volume</span> <span class="hps">and drapes</span>, and <span class="hps">anything else that can</span> <span class="hps">be</span> <span class="hps">useful</span> <span class="hps">to enrich</span> <span class="hps">your garments</span>!Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-35564300667755841392014-01-01T15:20:00.000+01:002014-01-28T15:55:16.740+01:00My shop on etsy!<br />
<span class="hps">I</span> <span class="hps">recommend</span> <span class="hps">you to take a look</span> <span class="hps">at my</span> <span class="hps">little shop</span> <span class="hps">on etsy</span>!<br />
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<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/SilviaAlphardCouture">http://www.etsy.com/shop/SilviaAlphardCouture</a><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iQW4jfVVpHQ/Uue8i1o9z5I/AAAAAAAAAgA/oFxXy8apKZI/s1600/1006234_592467204131021_798552827_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iQW4jfVVpHQ/Uue8i1o9z5I/AAAAAAAAAgA/oFxXy8apKZI/s1600/1006234_592467204131021_798552827_n.jpg" height="118" width="320" /></a></div>
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You also can find coupon codes on my facebook page: <br />
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/SilviaAlphardCouture">https://www.facebook.com/SilviaAlphardCouture</a><br />
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<strong><span class="hps">This is a brief</span> <span class="hps">presentation</span> <span class="hps">of me and my works:</span></strong><br />
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<div class="story-body">
I always have loved corsets and costumes<br />
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I bought my first corset when I was 20. I bought it in a lingerie shop, It wasn’t a good corset, it comes with plastic bones and so it did not last long <br />
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With the coming of internet, I began to inquire about corsets. I learned that they had to have steel bones to not deform and to give an hourglass shape.<br />
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Since corsets found in stores did not satisfy me , I started to read up on how to do a corset on measure. In the meantime, I decided to enroll in a fashion school , to learn the basics of sewing and modeling .<br />
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I studied on several books : “Corset and crinolines” by Norah Waugh , “Corsets” by Jill Saleen , “The basic of corset building” by Linda Sparks, “Corset Making” of Julia Bremble , learning the basis and gradually improving the technique. I also love experimenting with new forms to give to my corsets.<br />
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Today I'm a corsetiere and costume designer, I love my job and I really want to spread my passion and dreams all over the world! </div>
Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8682899193783442701.post-90984070528607946322013-12-11T15:32:00.000+01:002014-01-28T15:33:08.776+01:00Book review - Patterns of fashion I -II<div id="tts_button">
<span id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">A couple of weeks</span> <span class="hps">ago I bought</span> <span class="hps">2 books</span> <span class="hps">on amazon</span>: <span class="hps">Patterns of</span> <span class="hps">fashion</span> <span class="hps">volume</span> I<span class="hps"> and II.</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bNASimDBIFQ/UTItFgadFDI/AAAAAAAAAXY/LUsZSuK1Lac/s1600/SAM_0804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bNASimDBIFQ/UTItFgadFDI/AAAAAAAAAXY/LUsZSuK1Lac/s320/SAM_0804.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="hps">In the two</span> <span class="hps">books</span> <span class="hps">are presented</span> <span class="hps">some</span> historical dresses that you can find in <span class="hps">famous <span class="hps">British</span> museums</span> <span class="hps">such as the</span> <span class="hps">Victoria and Albert Museum</span>, <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">Gloucester</span> <span class="hps">museum, the</span> <span class="hps">gallery of</span> <span class="hps">English costume</span> <span class="hps">and so on.</span> <span class="hps">The first book</span> <span class="hps">covers</span> <span class="hps">the period</span> <span class="hps">from 1660</span> <span class="hps">until 1860,</span> <span class="hps">the second</span> covers the <span class="hps">period</span> <span class="hps">from 1860 until </span><span class="hps">1940.</span> <br />
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<span class="hps">Next to the</span> <span class="hps">costume's drawing</span> you can find <span class="hps">the pattern</span> <span class="hps">on a small scale</span> <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">a few notes</span> <span class="hps">about</span> <span class="hps">the type</span> <span class="hps">and color of the</span> <span class="hps">fabric used</span>, the information on<span class="hps"> how</span> <span class="hps">to assemble</span> <span class="hps">the dress</span>, <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">other informations.</span> <br />
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<span class="hps">I have not still tried</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">make a costume</span> <span class="hps">following the instructions</span> <span class="hps">in the book</span>, but <span class="hps">they</span> <span class="hps">seem to be a</span> <span class="hps">good source</span> <span class="hps">of</span> <span class="hps">inspiration</span>.<br />
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<span class="hps">Here</span> there are <span class="hps">some pictures</span> <span class="hps">so</span> <span class="hps">you can</span> <span class="hps">get an idea</span>:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VRxFyZFuwaM/UTIvD282EFI/AAAAAAAAAXk/DbzluhHKHEY/s1600/SAM_0806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VRxFyZFuwaM/UTIvD282EFI/AAAAAAAAAXk/DbzluhHKHEY/s320/SAM_0806.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mxIQFwebFBg/UTIvFZ0RdPI/AAAAAAAAAXs/r-2iDhfx3tQ/s1600/SAM_0807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mxIQFwebFBg/UTIvFZ0RdPI/AAAAAAAAAXs/r-2iDhfx3tQ/s320/SAM_0807.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y64ai6Q7WdM/UTIvHOghG1I/AAAAAAAAAX0/UtR4OiHj33A/s1600/SAM_0812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y64ai6Q7WdM/UTIvHOghG1I/AAAAAAAAAX0/UtR4OiHj33A/s640/SAM_0812.JPG" height="224" width="640" /></a></div>
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Silvia Alphardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10353302033736913681noreply@blogger.com1